Loving the progress!   Short answer about the attaching plans:   I like nuts and bolts because, with judicious use of spacers and/or tightening, you can adjust the fit of the parts with them.   I love using earth magnets for all sorts of things.   The teacher that cannot seem to retire and sometimes over-thinks things can tell you more about using magnets -   I always check what electronics will be nearby before choosing to use them. Speakers, screens, data storage, pacemakers, etc. can all be adversely affected by strong magnetic fields. They also take some calibrating to ensure that the parts will stay together, but not be so fond of each other as to be damaged during separation. A magnet’s strength and its size are related, but when you buy them, size is not one of the three factors used to rate them. The rating on the label is for the size that you buy. If it is not strong enough, but a bigger diameter won’t fit, you can stack two to increase the strength.   Magnets are rated by component material, strength, and heat resistance.   The first letter in the magnet’s designation represents the material from which it is made. High strength magnets are usually ceramic "C", neodymium "N", or samarium cobalt "SmCo".   The letter(s) are followed by a number representing the strength. In my experience, it is most commonly the force in pounds necessary to separate the magnet from a piece of smooth steel.   The trailing 1 or 2 letters indicate the heat resistance.   To me, heat resistance is probably the most important consideration. One of my first uses of magnets was for wiring hot rod engine compartments. Those cars then sat for hours in outdoor, summer car shows. The normal operating temperature for most modern cars is between 190 and 220° F (87-104 degrees Celsius). I needed to use heat-resistance grade NH or higher magnets in an engine compartment. For the rest of the car, I go with worst-case scenario of a high-temperature car show location (current record 117°) and a black interior – including the dash. Under those conditions, the interior can potentially exceed 200 degrees, necessitating the use of at least NM grade magnets.   Why should I care about the temperature to which the magnet is exposed? Because below the rating temperature, the magnet can be re-magnetized, if the heat drains its strength. Above the heat-rating, strength losses become permanent.   For example, my N42SH magnets are made mostly of neodymium, have a holding force of 42 pounds, and are good for temperatures up to 300° F (150° C). (They are separated in the box by pieces of thick neoprene foam. If I let them, they jump to nearby metal objects and are difficult to remove. If I drop them, they sometimes go up or sideways. If I put one back with the others without the foam, it is a huge issue. They are worth it, though, if you want to keep a carpet in position in a pricey car without drilling any holes or squirting any glue…

Another quick update:  Continuing my Dalek construction, I deliberated on the best way to slice the inside neck bin and print it on my TronXY VEHO 1000-16. I used the Elegoo Neptune 3 Max to run off a couple of the eye-stalk disks, and used the Saturn 4 to make the light covers and bases for the dome.  

Hey I’m new here and I want to build the 2010 new dalek and I was wondering how did you all make the shoulders? Other parts are much more easier than the shoulders. If you could tell me how did you make the shoulders I would be so grateful!

And just to round off that update, here’s the shoulders all glued up and together as one piece for the first time. In their current form they weigh ~5.3kg and feel immensely solid, no flex at all. I still need to trim the wooden bits smooth.      Today I also finished up with the dome touch ups, so it’ll be filler primer and sanding from now on. I’m in no rush to grey prime it as painting is a long way off and a lot of mechanisms still need to be put in.  On the subject of mechanisms, I just wanted to bounce ideas off you good people. I have 2 designs for attaching slats, one with screws/bolts from the inside with threaded inserts (the shoulders only have holes for the top) and one with super strong magnets. Maybe cut a hole in the second skin to allow me to glue a magnet, hidden, for the bottom attachment. Not sure, drop your thoughts below.    Also, for my plunger arm, I’m considering making it from PVC pipe as well, as I want all my “metal” parts (gun arm, plunger arm, eyestalk) to look the same so ideally will use the same painting process. I’d cover the bushes in something soft like sponge and silk, and add a strong lacquer to avoid paint scraping during operation. Interested fo hear your thoughts.    happy exterminating!