It would be best to take the running gear from the power chair and mount it on a custom-made frame/chassis. There are plenty of build diaries which demonstrate how this is done (the motorised tag will help you find them).    This is a great example of what can be done (click grey arrow, top right):   Failing that, strip the power chair back as much as possible and see if you can get it into the fender/skirt. Mounting them might prove challenging.

I ran out of metal tape for the collars.  Add £20 for MDF and glue.  Painting upper interior white to hopefully show off Metallic paint better.  Probably needs a few coats 

Started to put together the gun boxes which will use solid 50mm wooden balls. Sides and bottom are 5mm ply. The front is a 8mm piece of ply with a 40mm hole cut in it which was then rasped and sanded out to match the profile of the ball.   Working a little bit on the electronics. You can get remote controls with 12 generic buttons that transmit to a relay board. You can also get a board that takes 8 inputs and plays one of eight pre-recorded sounds when the input is triggered (grounded). Put these together and you have a remote controlled activation of 8 pre-recorded sounds.   Initially I had tried soldering directly to the sound board but made an error where I’d cut the length of the wires going to relays 7 through 12 before I realised I was wiring to the wrong side of the relay board. I would have still worked but it annoyed me so I decided to change it. It was a little difficult de-soldering the wires from the board but I replaced them with a header so it was be easy to re-work in future.   The problem was it wouldn’t work. The relay board was activating but I couldn’t get sound out of the sound board. The board says it only takes a 32Mbit (4Mbyle) SD card. It’s difficult to get one this small these days and I’d initially incorrectly ordered a 32Mbyte card. Was this why it wasn’t working? It’s not immediately obvious how to re-partition an SD card but finally worked out how to do this. It still wasn’t working.   I wondered if it needed the files named 00001.WAV instead of 00001.wav (upper case vs lower cast) but that wasn’t the issue either. I _eventually_ discovered that in the process of changing from the wires to the header strip; I had managed to damage the ground reference connection pad to the inputs. This was bad in that that one pad took out all the inputs. Any of the other pads would only have affected a single input and been much easier to diagnose. On the other hand it was good, as there were other ground reference points I could access on the board and a single wire over on the bottom of the board resolved the issue.   A little progress on the skirt, shoulders and neck but nothing to show yet.   Progress 13% Anticipated completion date: early Dec 2025 (Except it won’t, as we move into the better weather I’m not going to focus as much of my free time on this Dalek).

Not too late at all, see the next post 🙂 Next task was to lay the templates onto the ply and draw around them ready to cut them out.     I held the template in place using masking tape and then drew around the outside. You should just be able to see in the bottom LH corner that I place the template on the plywood so that I have enough for an overlap on the top and bottom. I did this by taping a pencil and a piece of stiff wire to a 50mm wide piece of scrap wood. I also made sure I transferred the labelling from the template onto the wood, so that I would be able to identify the pieces and the correct orientation. Next job was to cut the ply.     Then I did a test fit of the rear piece, tp start to see how I was going to fix and shape it.     I decided I would glue and screw the ply to the side support (the one that the pice is clamped to in the image), and then glue and possibly also use some screws in the top and bottom, although the ply used for the top and bottom sections may not be thick enough. What I am unlcear of is how to hold the ply in place.