Thanks @Trackhappy and @bertus . Really need these ideas. Plenty of improvements can be made. But I will need to fit it all into a bigger case. Just worked on this version of design to get a model out there for independant testing.   Can add a distortion board that has it's own op-amp. Then add a Bass tone board that has op-amp with 5 times the gain level. Need to go back to the paperwork with calculations for the Low Pass filter's. Maybe If I put the Low Pass network in front of the tone board. Then with a dashpot to go from 1 to 5 times the gain level. This way I can change the passive low pass and change it to active low pass by using the tone board op-amp.   Building an active Low Pass filter network has always been a weak area of my ability.      

If you have a voltmeter, power the board up again and measure the volts at the output of the regulator and the ground  (negative ) line.  This should read 5 volts -- if  it reads 12 volts then the regulator has short circuited  and this has fried the teensy, though I have never known a regulator do this. If the voltage reads 0 volts then it is possible that the regulator has gone open circuit, in which case you could replace it and all should be well. I would also check for solder bridges with a very powerful magnifying glass especially  around the regulator. Hope this helps,      Dave.

I was initially planning on painting the hemis neatly for an interim Genesis look - however, getting about four columns neatly painted took me nearly two hours, and I'm getting impatient. Looking at some pictures, I think the BBC must have used different methods at different times - sometimes painting the skirt first, then picking out the hemis with a (reasonably) steady hand; and at other times, painting up the hemis, masking them off, then painting the skirt next.   The latter approach would undoubtedly result in a neater line, but I've had a terrible time with masking tape lifting off gloss paint in the past.... the original iteration of my Resurrection Dalek, for one! However, I am told that oil-based paint is notably harder and more durable then water-based, so I did a quick test with some masking tape, and the paint held up absolutely fine... So, decision made... two coats of black onto the hemis - overspilling onto the skirt, but getting good coverage onto the hemi -  and *hopefully* it'll hold up to the masking tape. I'm planning on doing it Thursday and Friday, so hopefully that will give the hemi paint some time to harden up too.   The paint is going on really nicely. It's so nice to get a legitimate gloss finish, the black looks especially good.   I gave the fender a quick coat of black, if nothing else just to get a coat on.   I gave the domes a coat of RAL 7024 - it's nice to be finally moving onto the final colours. I had planned to apply a further coat tomorrow, but it's gone on so well, I'm hoping that I won't have to. You do have to spend some time working the oil-based paint, but the finish you get if you put the effort in is quite fantastic. It feels authentic.   I also started overcoating the existing parts with the oil-based gloss, to ensure a consistent finish - starting with the old neck cage.   I'm hoping that (possibly eyeballs aside) these Daleks will be done two weeks tomorrow....!

Thanks, i do like the og tv21 emperors and I certainly would print one if I could find a good design online although greens 3d’s interpretation looks absolutely stunning and would definitely be worth the price. On another note the dome was a sort of happy accident as the software I’m using to arrange the parts to print won’t let me export the file with high quality textures without out paying so spheres and curves end up being printed low polygon.