@Dalek Decimus   Hi. I wouldnt have bought from them new, but this one was in fairly good condition (nothing major broken or lost) and I thought was a good basis for me to rebuild to a runner. Im please with my puirchase so far.   I also cant comment on the build quality from TPE as there has obviously been some misuse and repairs by previous owners, so Im not 100% whats original.    The quality of the fibreglass and metal work seems good though, and thats what I needed.   Ive seen mixed reports about the Scottish ones too, but not seen one in the 'flesh'.    Did some testing yesterday prior to fitting the motors into the head, and Im having some issues getting the Sabertooth 2x5 controller for the head to work. Its not linking to the R/C receiver no matter what I try.    I bought a 2x32 for the main drive motors and a 2x5 to drive the head motors (rotation and eye). Ive hooked them up on the bench to test with the R/C and the 2x32 is fine and works as expected, but the 2x5 refuses to link to the receiver.  The blue LED is flashing rapidly and dimly and never changes.   I have tried 2 different R/C receivers (both of them work with the 2x32) with no change. Ive tried powering the R/C receiver both from a 4.8v battery and from the 5v output from the 2x5 (not at the same time) no change.   Ive also tried different dip switch settings 4/5/6 but no difference.   Has anyone else used a 2x5 Sabertooth driven from an R/C receiver and have any helpful suggestions?    

I should have made this side by side comparison of the PD drawings earlier...!

Hope this is clearer. Just bear in mind this was just to shape the input from the mic before modulation, not like a hifi type tone circuit. And these are just snippets I hacked to give you a starting place. Kev there are plenty of filter design sites where you put in your desired cutoff point and it gives you the values.  

I hadn't intended to create a full build diary for this. It started as an experiment to create a DIOE/movie fender mould, and then drifted into my making a Dalek base to test the mould. But now that it's finished, I've pulled together some photos, and, where the build process was new to me, written up how I went about things.   My goal at the outset was to create a DIOE/movie fender mould, based off an old fender I had, which had been languishing outside beside the workshop for a couple of years. This is the fender from when it was attached to my first 60s Dalek:       I'm guessing the lineage of this fender is the same as the one that John used for his movie fender mould:       Besides general uneveness and loss of clean lines, there are two significant problems with this cast. The first, which I was well aware of from the outset, is that the righthand edge towards the rear dips quite markedly, so that looked at along the top surface, the rear corner looks crumpled. The second problem, which I really only noticed when refurbishing the cast to make the new mould, is that the lefthand side bows inwards.   Here you can see the old cast marked with masking tape to act as a guide for cutting back the top surface:     Note the two wooden timbers that I'd previously fibreglassed in place to support the wheels. I had to cut these out as best I could before using a jigsaw to trim the fibreglass back to the tape lines:     With very little top surface left, the fender was inclined to flex, so I clamped it down as best I could to a large melamine-backed board. This then allowed me to build up that back lefthand edge with P40. Very rough-and-ready to begin with, but sufficient to get a straight edge.     After that I gelcoated what would become the flat top of the fender, and put down several layers of matting.     The next photo shows the fender right way up, with my having done some further work to fix up the rear right side and edge.     There are voids where the gelcoat meets the edges of the original cast, which I deliberately broke up in many places so that I could then achieve a solid fill. At this stage, the fender was looking in a very sorry state, and I did wonder whether I'd made a mistake. But I decided to carry on a little, sanding and breaking things down, and building up again, but half resigned to perhaps throwing it all away.    A light coat of high build primer helped ease my concerns: while there was still a lot to do, I could see that my efforts on the rear right had paid off.     So I continued coating with primer, and sanding down. I used a mixture of P40 and P38, and a wooden former with sandpaper, to even out the rear, thinking that was the last of the heavy remedial work.     And then I realised the lefthand side was bowed in towards the bottom, as though it had been pushed in from the side. So once more I broke out the P40, and started filling. The last photo here, taken from underneath, shows how much the original side had flexed inwards.     After that, things progressed quite smoothly. There was still some residual bowing when the fender sat on the board, so I screwed it down and then filled the holes. Lots more filler, and sanding with a wooden former again to round off the front.     Filleting wax where the fender met the board. Tooling gelcoat, and then 300, 450 and 2 x 600gsm layers of matting, and some wooden reinforcing.     After around 10 weekends' work, I had a new mould: