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We thought we would update the continuing saga of the shoulder build. Looking at other builders we couldn't easily see the build process around the different  layers of the shoulders until finished ( to be fair there probably is on this site, but we haven't yet located the pictures). We saw lots of questions of build process and methods of attachment / panelisation. So to help we have added some very rough partial build pictures to help. Its personally not great seeing them as the camera distorts the cut lines and exaggerates the need for filling but hey , hopefully this will help others out. The second layer of the skin was troublesome despite soaking down the MDF. We also found that a repeated MDF soak down ( approx 4 times) destablises the material on the surface and you need to spread PVA or, in our case, "titebond" to reform the exterior layer and stop it crumbling. You can see this in the darker colour change on the MDF right next to the right gun box. We also did end up adding a few #6 screws to the second layer into the  base.    these are hidden so it really reduced our need for clamping. The third layer ( 90mm) was glued and air nailed; as we had adequate depth for the 1 inch nails.     The second layer was made in four parts, which made the clamping and gluing more manageable; a rear panel, two side panels  and the smaller front lip ( third layer was the same). On the build we have used the almost flat area at the sides to make the joins. But making sure we staggered the joints slightly to ensure the loads were spread over that area. Largely we have used another 3mm MDF piece glued between the spacers and glued allowing a level butt joint. The titebond seems to squeeze out and perfectly fill the joint and in some cases we just pressed sawdust into the glue as a filler.   The front spacers require chamfering to get the lip at the front flat,  and of course adjusting these as you move around the front to sides under the gun box. The small indent to the side of the gun boxes is just visible on the BBC prop, so we aimed to replicate that. We also gave this a straight edge down to the front lip ( we noted that the fibreglass molds have a curve ; possibly for better removal from the former). Most of the area is hidden so there is a variety of different methods. By the way, the green stripes are not permanent. They are just tape for the hemispheres. Its more likely we will put a laser level on these to double check alignment. Although the props look to be all over the place on placement. But we would like to get this as good  as we can and be somewhat pleasing on the eye.       First step before bondo'ing, is to toughen up the spray foam areas with fibreglass filler. We pushed back some of the foam from the outer skins so that we had the glass fibre dropping behind the MDF and making a more rigid bond than just the top of the 3mm MDF. The spray-foam was of course cut back and we ran out just before the end.  A good tip here is that the spray foam take a good 24 hours to cure and those plasticky mushrooms sprouting all over your shoulders can be sliced open after about 15 minutes and  cut and squished and repacked into holes. They are a little denser, but the residual foam keeps going and filling. This saved us nearly 20 dollars and produces less landfill and waste.   Glass fibre filler is pretty messy and you have to work fast. We made small amounts and worked in 15 minute bursts before the resin cured. Its pretty rough to place and now needs bondo on top of it but the rigidity is great.       With some judicious spreading over the joints, you can get a good first layer of fibreglass filler down into all those gaps.  We are not quite into the 3rd layer 'flat' 90mm skin and have to some skin leveling but it will follow the same process. I have included a detail of the gun-box, front panel, recessed area and outer skin if it helps others. Obviously there is a lot more to do and fill yet, but we are on the home run. We didn't chamfer the thin ends of the panel between the gun-boxes  as they are hidden and we had lots of spacers; plus the bondo will ultimately do that for us.     A slight deviation from this subject, is that we were experiencing Z axis issues on the Creality CR10 when printing. Looks like we found the culprits. A wobbly bed; so we upgraded with new springs and some special rubber bushings and without doubt the wheels under the bed were all worn ( see below): that's what you get when you purchase a second-hand printer.     Brand spanky new wheels.                

Actually, I should use the TV version on iPlayer for this Dalek!

Okay, so plan for tonight is to use the old laptop that still has a disc drive to play Daleks' Invasion Earth 2150 AD and screen record the Daleks key phrases. If they are okay, so I guess without music, to make them into small videos on clip champ, of the stripped sound track with the words as an image. Stick these on an old Fire tablet, pair that with the bluetooth shower speaker, and give the Dalek a (limited) voice by the appropriate word or phrase being pressed to have it then spoken...  

Ok Simon. Your on the list